What's the best routine for curly hair? What do you have to keep in mind?

Not all the curls are the same and, unfortunately, it's hard to find advice that works on all heads alike. The ideal care plan is to be achieved through trial and error and careful observation of how our hair reacts to cutting, styling and cosmetics. 

However, there is one thing I can strongly warn all curly-haired people against, and that is dry combing their hair. Treating curls this way is bound to give us the Hagrid hairstyle from Harry Potter. 

What is the biggest mistake you can make when caring for curly hair?

I think it's easy to overdo it, especially at the beginning. Less is more. It is not difficult to weigh down curly hair with too many different cosmetics; it is much better to introduce and test cosmetics one by one. It will be easier to find out which ingredients suit you and which do not. It's also not worth spending half the morning in the bathroom styling your hair; time-consuming routine can quickly discourage you from bringing out your curl. And from there, it's a short way to blow-drying your hair again. 

Porosity. This is a frequently raised issue. Is determining the porosity of the hair really that crucial?

Porosity defines the degree of opening of the hair cuticle, which relates to the hair's ability to absorb and release water. Curly hair is most often highly porous, so it is very susceptible to moisture - I think every curly-haired person knows what can happen after a light rain. The hair 'drinks' the water, which makes it increase its volume and causes frizz. However, when the air is too dry, curls can lose their moisture, making the hair prone to breakage and split ends. That's why it's so important to test the porosity of your hair and match it with the right care. One of the simplest porosity tests is the glass of water test. Place clean, dry strand of hair (shampooed, no conditioners or styling products) in a glass of water.  If the hair strand floats on the surface of the water, this indicates low-porosity hair. If the hair floats on the surface of the water and then sinks halfway into the glass, it is of normal porosity. Highly porous hair will quickly sink to the bottom of the glass because of the water trapped in its raised cuticles. To check the raising of the hair cuticles, the most reliable is an electron microscope, but it is probably easier to do the test with a glass. Also, the way how hair reacts to styling can be a porosity indicator. Medium- and high-porosity hair can hold its shape for a long time. While low-porous hair is often resistant to styling. Their closed cuticles cause the hair slide over each other and return to its natural state.

How to maintain a PEH balance?

Once we get to know our hair enough to know whether it is lacking humectants or proteins - which can be the biggest problem at first - things become much easier.  It is also important to remember the order of application when providing specific PEH ingredients. Proteins fill in the gaps in the hair cuticle, but without the subsequent application of humectants, which bind water in the cuticle, little benefit will be gained.

However, the most important thing is to apply emollients at the end of the styling. This can be an emollient conditioner applied at the end of a wash or oil applied to already dry hair. Oils, including those combined with silicones, will protect and close the hair cuticle.

Proteins, emollients, humectants... How can we recognise if we are lacking any of these?

A lack of protein weakens the curl and the hair often looks flat and dull. An excess of protein can make hair stiff and cause it to creak or rustle to the touch. When there is a lack of emollients, hair is frizzy, fly-away and often rough to the touch. An excess of emollients is very easy to recognise - hair looks greasy, clumps into strands and is flat. Hair that lacks humectants will be dull and dry to the touch. An excess of humectants, on the other hand, will frizz, tangle and cause the hair to felt. We must also remember that deficiencies of certain elements can be exacerbated by the weather; especially high humidity affects the hair's moisture balance. 

What is the order in which conditioners should be applied? How should they be applied? How often should they be applied? 

In order for the hair to absorb all the necessary ingredients, the hair must be free of any residual impurities such as dust or styling product residues. It is best to shampoo your hair twice. The PEH abbreviation can be a little misleading, as the order of application of conditioners should always be the same. Proteins first, then humectants and finally emollients. Apply the protein mask first for no longer than the manufacturer indicates on the packaging, preferably wrapping the hair in foil or wearing a shower cap. Heating may improve the penetration of the protein molecules into the hair cavities. Then rinse the hair and apply a humectant mask, rinse, and finally apply an emollient mask to close the hair's cuticles. Remember to use products from the same brand, so that the successive components of the conditioners interact with each other and no ingredient is overdone. Consistency is crucial here, because just as diets don't work for us straight away, hair needs to get used to the new 'nutrition'.

Is it possible for every curly hair owner to achieve a similar result?

Every curly-haired person has a completely different hair shape and it is impossible to get a similar effect. There are an unimaginable number of factors. Temperature, styling, hair thickness and density etc. The same goes for colouring. When you take one number of hair dye, for example, let it be blonde, and apply the same number to ten people, there will be a completely different effect in each person. The same happens with curly hair.

Can the curl bounce be controlled naturally? 

The right cut has a big impact on the density and shape of curls. Longer hair is heavier and is more likely to form coils, while the same hair cut shorter can curl into large irregular curls right from the roots. The way the styling product is applied can also affect how the hair curls. Kneading the styling product will give a different effect than brushing it on early. The drying method also has a big impact on the shape of the curls: curls dried with a diffuser will look different to those dried naturally. There are a lot of variables and a lot of surprises - the most important thing is to find your favourite way, which will become a habit over time.

What are the most common questions asked by curly hair owners?

"What can I do to keep my hair from frizzing out?" Yes, this is probably the most common question. Here, the answer is usually to find a PEH balance. Sometimes it's enough to eliminate cosmetics with a lot of glycerine or alcohol, and sometimes it's just a matter of stopping dry combing the hair. Another very common question I hear is: "why doesn't my diffuser work?" And here the answer is very simple. Do not use the diffuser like a massager. When using it, we dry our hair section by section, with almost no movement. I think such problems stem from the chaos of information. There is a lot of information coming at us from every direction, but this information is sometimes contradictory, so I am always happy to give advice and invite you to a consultation.

What fact about curly hair is the most surprising?

I think what surprises me the most is that as many as 55% of Europeans have wavy or curly hair. And I can confirm this with a strong confidence, because I have been dealing with curly hair for 22 years. Our hair wants to curl, but we don't always let it do so. 

Are there any myths prevalent among your clients and maybe even other hairdressers?

Yes, there are actually quite a few. I have heard many times that curly hair should only be cut dry. However, this is not the only right way for all hairstyles; a wet cut will often give a much better result than a dry cut. A dry cut can be very risky as we can end up with split ends, which will exacerbate frizz. A lot of people want to be cut with hot scissors, which is also a recipe for split hair. Another myth that is circulating among clients is that you need a ton of products to care for curly hair. In fact, you need three conditioners to achieve PEH balance, a mask, obviously - a shampoo, oil and one curl activator.

Do you follow groups and forums for curly hair owners? Is it possible to get professional help there?

I'd like to, but there's so much going on there that it's hard for me to keep up! The biggest Polish group for curly-haired women has an average of 40 new posts a week. I really appreciate the tests and reviews of cosmetics there. The analyses of the compositions and how they are matched to the specific needs and porosity of the hair are often very professional and substantive.

Who to go to for advice?

If medical advice is needed because we suspect atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, a visit to a trichologist is essential, but necessarily the one who is also a dermatologist. If we need a beauty advice, a hairdresser is the best option - because they know our hair best and how it reacts to specific treatments and cosmetics. I go online to analyse ingredients or find out about cosmetic news.

Do you need special skills to cut curly hair? Can every hairdresser do it?

As I mentioned earlier most clients have curly hair, but unfortunately few hairdressers know how to deal with it. Cutting curly hair is similar to colouring, I have to analyse exactly how thick and coarse the hair is and adjust the cut and styling accordingly. I don't have a one-size-fits-all method, because different things work for different people.

First of all, I cut the hair 'hard', a hard line works for most curly hairstyles. Unlike straight hair, curly hair can't be layered down, because while straight hair will gain volume, curly hair will frizz horribly. I get great results using a feather styling razor or a regular razor, but I always choose the method individually for the hair type.

How to protect my curly hair at night?

A cap gives the best results, but I know that not everyone is willing to use it. Therefore, if not a cap or a turban, it is essential to tie the hair up with an elastic scrunchie. It is important that it does not have any metal parts that can damage the hair.  The hair shall be loosely pineappled at the top of the head. Changing the pillowcase may also be very effective. Natural silk would be ideal, but it can also be satin cotton - the most important thing is that the material is satiny to the touch. Curls on such a pillowcase slip instead of rubbing and straightening. It also solves the problem of tangled hair at the neck.

Can curly hair be bleached? Would bleach damage it too much?

It is best to bleach curly hair gradually so that it has time to recover. However, after bleaching, it is important to balance the pH and a vinegar rinse is excellent for this. Simply mix 2 tablespoons of vinegar with a litre of water. Luckily, the smell of vinegar fades quickly leaving the hair's cuticles closed and hair beautifully smooth.

How to treat curly hair every day?

Care with moderation and gently, and a step by step process might look something like this. First, hygiene: don't wash your hair too often - twice a week is well enough. It's also a good idea to have a mechanical or enzymatic scalp scrub once a month to remove dead skin and stimulate circulation. Comb masks and conditioners into the hair with a wide tooth comb. If you use styling products, apply them to dripping wet hair.  After shampooing, do not use a towel to remove excess water. Don't knead your hair too hard in your hands, 2-3 gentle squeezes are enough. Then blow-dry with the diffuser with the head pointing downwards or to the side, it is important not to move the diffuser while drying each section. At the very end, lightly knead the oil spread in your hands. This ritual may seem time-consuming, but once it becomes a habit, it may become really enjoyable. It is also a good idea to do an oil treatment on your hair every now and then. However, here I would like to remind you of one very important rule, not to oil unwashed hair. It's like putting a mask on your face without first washing your make-up off. It is also very important to select an oil or oil blend according to the porosity of your hair.

Thank you for the interview!